Philippines

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on December 22nd, 2011


I wanted to write something for the blogs from the devastation in the southern Philippines this week ... But I can't seem to find the words... 
 
Looking through old journals though, I found an entry written in China while on assignment there right after the earthquake in 2008.  

I find it's exactly what I'd like to share now - something I first learned in Gaza ... and Baghdad ... and it was reiterated years later in China, and more recently in Japan.
 
It echoes again here in the flood-ravaged areas of northern Mindanao.
 
23, May 2008
Chengdu, China 
By Marga Ortigas in Asia on February 11th, 2011
Photo by EPA

"They say so much… and accomplish nothing ..."

The almost-whispered words of the weary 24-year-old warrior reverberated in the sweltering heat of the marshland morning. Its' hollow echo like ghosts of all the fallen in this scarred land ... striking in their silence.

He looked away, but his words hung in the air like flies around a corpse.

As a Muslim, Norodin feels he was born into this war in the southern Philippines. His father was a separatist fighter before him, so he too joined the Moro Islamic Liberation Front, or MILF. 

He knew little else. 

Many others share his story.

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on May 13th, 2010
Photo from AFP

At around two o’clock on Tuesday morning, with 24-hour rolling news coverage on local networks going into its second day, a very pleased-looking Commission on Elections (Comelec) official was being interviewed live on television from the national vote tallying centre.  

He could barely contain his excitement as he declared the first fully automated polls in the Philippines a success (much, it seemed, to his own surprise). 

He had been up against the proverbial wall for weeks prior to the May 10th elections as machines failed when tested, contingency plans were ridiculed, and the credibility of the process itself was questioned.  

He had been laughed at, scorned, and beseeched to put a stop to automated plans; but on behalf of the Comelec, he had said they would plough through - and the nation would be better for it.  

Now even the previous nay-sayers are flabbergasted.  

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on May 8th, 2010
Al Jazeera photo

I thought I understood what moving like "a bat of out hell" meant but I realised I was wrong one late summer afternoon as we sped like maniacs up and down a dangerously dark and winding road on the southern Philippine coast trying to keep up with a convoy going at almost 200km per hour with a black Humvee at its centre.

In our clunky little rented Mitsubishi, all the Al Jazeera crew held on to the handles closest to us for dear life as we were rattled and rolled in ways we barely thought possible.Seatbelts notwithstanding.

We were on the political campaign trail with world-renowned boxer Manny Pacquiao - and it was nothing like we had expected.

An early start (sort of)

“Make sure you are there by 9 a.m.…” our producer repeated. “His schedule is packed and they can’t even tell us if he can he can sit for an interview straightaway…”

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on December 25th, 2009
Photo by AFP

It's a scene quite unlike any other this Christmas, and yet, on the surface, not too different really from any other joyous celebration this holiday season across the predominantly Catholic Philippines. 

It's the most important time of year here – and the snapshots are familiar: big smiles, lots of food, twinkling lights, and a soundtrack of pumping music and loud raucous laughter.

Even here, in an evacuation centre filled with hundreds who have had to vacate their homes around the country's most active volcano that's been threatening to explode for days now.

Yes, even these Mayon evacuees - who face losing everything they have - know how to have a good time. 

Better Christmas

It's a better Christmas than many of them say they can remember.

Really, that's what they told us. 

"Happy!" Ruth Espinas said, flashing a wide grin. 

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on October 21st, 2009
Photo by Getty Images

Because of a series of natural calamities, the national (and international) spotlight has been on Manila and the northern Philippine provinces more than usual the past few weeks. The problems of the continuously restive Muslim south have been relegated even further back in the pages of the local dailies than they already were ordinarily.

It's an area of this predominantly Christian country that has long felt ignored and misunderstood and now, no matter what might be going on in Mindanao, it seems to barely make a dent on the national consciousness.  Thing is – many of its residents feel like their region is on the verge of imploding – and everyone else is too busy to notice... or care.

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on October 16th, 2009

Pangasinan.jpg

We set out before dawn to head north of Manila.  Parma had finally left the country – and the rains had stopped.  But the devastation the new deluge – which came just 2 weeks on the heels of Ketsana – brought to Northern Luzon was like nothing anyone had seen before.  “It’s worst than Manila,” radio commentators reported.

We drove for 4 hours through 3 provinces. So far, so good. But after the sun rose, as far as the eye could see – where agricultural lands had been, now there were only vast, vast lakes.  Endless kilometres of damaged crops.  And there was still water coursing through many of the roads.  But until we got to the boundary of Pangasinan province, they were still passable.

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on October 13th, 2009

clean_up.jpg
The amount of garbage left across Manila in Ketsana’s wake is – to quote the man tasked with over-seeing its clearing – “unthinkable”.  He lowers his eyes, and sighs deeply as he says that.

By Step Vaessen in Asia on October 12th, 2009

She stood out in the disaster zone. A pretty 22-year-old student looking lost and lonely amongst the colorless rubble. Narrowly she had escaped the same fate as her schoolmates. A confused feeling of both relief and intense sorrow was haunting her just like most other survivors in Padang in West Sumatra.

By Marga Ortigas in Asia on October 5th, 2009

“Take a seat,” the soft-spoken and charming Maj. Gen. Benjamin Muhammed Dolorfino says as he offers us a cup of what’s called “warrior’s coffee”.  The strong local brew is grown in the hinterlands of troubled Mindanao - the Muslim heartland in the south of the predominantly Christian Philippines.

“This has been the longest week of my life,” he confides, sitting down to finally eat a late lunch.  He’s only been in command of Western Mindanao for two months, but already in that time, the area he’s responsible for has suffered some of the bloodiest encounters in the military’s pursuit of the Abu Sayyaf (ASG) – a notorious group responsible for bombings, kidnappings, extortion, murder, and a variety of other attacks on civilians, including what’s been labelled as the world’s “deadliest terror attack at sea” that left over 100 people dead.